A note from Mark Melvin

[Jeffery]

Many have heard about a lead climbing incident that occurred at Sacramento Pipeworks on Saturday, May 20th – one in which a climber's rope broke. On behalf of Touchstone Climbing, let me summarize what we know. First off, as a long time climber who leads and falls regularly, this is scary on the face of it. Most important is whether the climber is safe and did we handle the safety issues of this situation well. Thankfully, the fallen climber does appear to be okay. And I believe it is clear from those involved that we did an excellent job of ensuring safety of the climber, and researching and documenting the situation. Safety response isn’t happenstance. No one who works at Touchstone will disagree with the strength of our ‘safety first’ value. As regards lead climbing, we support it as a duty to our sport and the climbing community – but we do not encourage it. It is dangerous. Period.

A lead climber was taking a lead test. This requires use of their rope and a fall to be taken. Upon taking the fall, the rope apparently became taut, then snapped.

I’ve seen the route, the carabiner, and the rope. Nothing apparently unusual about any of them. The carabiner is smooth, and the draw and hanger were clearly not involved – i.e. didn’t pinch the rope. No other ropes were near by. The fall was clean, on a slightly overhanging face. The rope appears like many that a seasoned climber would have hanging around. It is not fuzzy. Even if not clean, it doesn’t look beat, although it seems a little stiff. The breakage occurred about 8’ from the end, which is about where we would expect to be the point of contact of the rope with the carabiner, presumably the point of greatest stress. The break to both the sheath and the core are closely contained.

I can’t say much more - this baffles all of us at Touchstone. I think we’re going to have to wait and see what rope experts say. The owner of the rope has apparently forwarded it to the manufacturer/representative. I’m as hopeful as everyone that we get a definitive answer – one that lets me know whether my old ropes are okay. Like most people, I have always said ‘ropes don’t break.’ This certainly gives me pause and may change my rope maintenance practices.

-Mark Melvin, CEO
Touchstone Climbing

[Hoofin It]

As a new climber this gives me reason for concern. I am working towards becoming a more serious climber and have purchased my first rope with an intent on climbing outdoors with my concern being that I am far from help with a similar situation taking place.
I understand keeping the rope clean and at a reasonable temperature and low in moisture. But are there any other concerns that I should be taking into mind with regard to my ropes? Any advice would be appreciated!

Thank you!

[bler]

you can search the web for the results of the tests, I think they concluded there was some sort of acid (battery?) on the rope where the breakage occured.

they tested other parts of the rope that passed all their tests.

I don't think you have anything to worry about. Keep your rope as clean and safe as possible and replace when necessary.