With the road closure to Yosemite, and the definite crowds heading to Tahoe, one of the great climbing escapes this Labor Day weekend will definitely be the Lover's Leap area. With dozens of moderate (5.6-5.9) three-four pitch traditional routes, the Leap offers a great escape from the city. The majority of the routes climb the steep east wall of the Leap, following direct aesthetic cracks-like The Line 5.9, or wandering slightly through a series of awesome granite cracks and dikes like on the 5.7 Bear's Reach.

If the camping is already full, and there are too many people at the Leap, Sugarloaf offers another excellent cragging destination. Just a few miles west of the Leap, the impeccable granite at Sugarloaf holds some excellent 5.10 face climbs and hard crack routes. For more information check out the Supertopo South Lake Tahoe guide book.


The Fracture, an excellent 10d crack, is outlined in red.

Labels: Lover's Leap, Sugarloaf, Supertopo

On the trail on the way up to Lover’s Leap from the parking area, just outside the campground, there are a couple of killer granite boulders that are worth the trip alone. There are a few dozen boulder problems of easy to moderate grades, the air is clean, the setting is beautiful, and the car is close.

SuperTopo publishers have a guidebook to the boulders in Lovers Leap Select by Mission Cliff’s own Chris McNamara.

Lover’s Leap is about 2 hours from Sacramento and about 3-4 hours from San Francisco off of highway 50 on the way to South Lake Tahoe. That’s close enough for a day trip, and you’ll be so glad you did it once you get your hands on that cool, grippy granite and smell the pine trees.

Labels: Chris McNamara, climbing, hot spots, Lover's Leap, Tahoe

It was a perfect day for Class 5’s guided trip to Phantom Spires with the Lovers Leap Guides last Saturday September 16. Eight members of Class 5 and two Ironworks members met at the Strawberry Lodge and then proceeded to Phantom Spires. For many of the climbers this was their first time on rock – also their first time climbing cracks and friction slabs. Petch and Heidi put up ropes on the middle spire, instructed on technique and offered lots of encouragement.

Since it had snowed a little the day before, we were a little worried about weather, but it turned out to be a cool sunny day. A good time was had by all.

If you are interested in future trips, contact Class 5 manager Ken.

Labels: class 5, climbing, Lover's Leap, members

Class 5 is organizing a day trip in connection with Lovers Leap Guides to climb the fine granite at Phantom Spires in the Sierras. This is a great area to start your outdoor climbing, or gain more experience in the wild.

This area is made up of many free standing formations called spires. The spires range in height up to 250 feet tall. After reaching the tops of the taller spires you experience a breath taking view of the American River Canyon. This area is known for its door knob like hand holds.

Driving time is 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours. Everyone will meet at Strawberry Lodge on Rt. 50. at 9am

Cost is $70 per person Limited to 12 people Sign up at Class 5

Labels: class 5, climbing, Lover's Leap

Northern CA Access Issues

According to the Access Fund, this summer the Easter Sierra Climbers Coaltion put out the word to avoid Clarks Canyon, an area near Bishop. Staying away will let hawks and eagles nest in peace on the spectular cliffs of “Area 13.” The birds need their space (at least a city block’s worth) so the itty bitty chicks are not stressed by the sight and sound of nearby climbers.

The good news is, it’s probably ok to climb there as of August 1st! Please direct any questions to the Eastern Sierra Climbers Coalition.

Each summer the face of Lover's Leap Rock in the Eldorado National Forest is closed from late April 21 through September. Climbing elsewhere will let falcons raise healthy young.

The Access Fund specifies that “the closure includes being upon or within 30 feet of the face of the Lover's Leap Rock, or within 30 feet of the top edge of Lover's Leap Rock, from the Bookmark route on the east to the Hourglass route on the west. For updates throughout the season or to learn more visit the National Forest Service website.

Labels: Access Fund, climbing, hot spots, Lover's Leap