On the trail on the way up to Lover’s Leap from the parking area, just outside the campground, there are a couple of killer granite boulders that are worth the trip alone. There are a few dozen boulder problems of easy to moderate grades, the air is clean, the setting is beautiful, and the car is close.

SuperTopo publishers have a guidebook to the boulders in Lovers Leap Select by Mission Cliff’s own Chris McNamara.

Lover’s Leap is about 2 hours from Sacramento and about 3-4 hours from San Francisco off of highway 50 on the way to South Lake Tahoe. That’s close enough for a day trip, and you’ll be so glad you did it once you get your hands on that cool, grippy granite and smell the pine trees.

Labels: Chris McNamara, climbing, hot spots, Lover's Leap, Tahoe

Cragmont is a small formation of boulders in Berkeley near Indian Rock, which has a rich history as the training ground for some of the biggest names in technical rock climbing's history.

Cragmont offers about a dozen short, slabby toprope routes from 5.6 - 5.11, and you can walk around to the base from each of the climbs.

To get there, get off I-80 at the Albany exit and go east for 3 blocks, and turn right onto Marin Ave. After the traffic circle follow Marin uphill to turn right on Regal Rd. You'll see the formation on the right up a few blocks - parking is on the street.

Check out Berkeley Ironworks upcoming calendar for outdoor trips planned.

Labels: Berkeley Ironworks, climbing, hot spots

Berkeley Ironworks will be hosting a book release party for the new bouldering guide to Yosemite Valley by Matt Wilder. Come by on May 31st at 7:30pm to see a slideshow by Matt Wilder including images from old school bouldering classics as well as the latest new areas in the Valley. Afterwards, there will b a book signing and some free pizza. There will also be some free schwag! Buy a Yosemite Valley Bouldering guide that night and you will be entered into the prize raffle.

Labels: Berkeley Ironworks, climbing, hot spots, Yosemite

Highway 120, which connects the Eastern and Western Sierra via the Yosemite high country, is scheduled to open Friday May 11th at noon. With the Sierra snowpack at a record 29% of normal levels, the lowest since 1988, Tioga Road will open a full month earlier than last year. While the lack of snow bodes ill for California's water supply in the coming year (state officials are already predicting shortages and possible restrictions this summer) the early opening of the Tioga Road is great news for fans of the climbing in Yosemite's Tuolumne Meadows, which is only accessible during the summer months when Highway 120 is free of snow.

At 8500 feet, Tuolumne Meadows is a wonderland of granite domes in a pristine alpine setting, offering climbers a cool and quiet refuge from the sweltering heat and Disneyland tourist scene found in nearby Yosemite Valley. Tuolumne is famous for its breathtaking vistas of the High Sierra, for its granite domes and golden faces peppered with the feldspar crystals that remain when the granite has partially eroded away (love 'em or hate 'em, the "knobs" provide a unique and often puzzling climbing experience), and for classic crack lines at every grade. If you're new to climbing in Tuolumne, be aware that Tuolumne is also famous for its puckering runouts, occasionally above 70's-era 1/4 inch bolts, so pay close attention to your route choices and to the letter 'R' that may appear after the difficulty grade. If clinging to a knobby slab 30 feet above your last piece of gear isn't your bag, Tuolumne also offers some excellent alpine bouldering. The newest edition of the Reid/Falkenstein Tuolumne Meadows guide includes a small portion of the bouldering, but for those willing to explore or ask around there are many more pebbles to be found hiding out in the woods. Whatever your climbing preference, Tuolumne season is here, so if those Valley crowds and rising temperatures are getting you down, head up the road to the high country where the air is cool and thin and the domes are endless.

Camping in Tuolumne is restricted to the single campground, which usually fills up on weekends, so plan ahead for accomodations- travel outside the park to the east is sometimes necessary to find a place to sleep. Bring your bug spray - wet conditions at the beginning of the season create a perfect breeding ground for relentless swarms of mosquitos.

Labels: hot spots, Yosemite

Nature has provided some convenient climbing areas in the Sierra foothills east of Sacramento. Here are a few areas to consider.

One is the Cosumnes River Gorge near Placerville. The North Fork of the Cosumnes River cuts through some polished granite, offering both top rope and sport climbing. These aren’t big climbs, but there are more than 100 of them and they sure are scenic. Difficulty ranges from 5.6 to 5.13b

Bucks Bar Dome is the main attraction, but there are other climbs nearby. Downstream is Midway Rocks, a bouldering area. And Gutenberger Wall ends in a nice swimming hole, if you’ve worked up a good sweat and need an excuse to go native.

The gorge is a popular spot, so don’t be surprised to see some climbing classes there on weekend mornings. Some locals, in fact, have expressed irritation that the place is getting so popular. At the same time, it’s a remote location and not the best place for a cell phone. Make sure enough people know where you are at any given time in case you get into a jam.

Not too long ago the land was privately owned but is now administered by the Bureau of Land Management.

There aren’t many guides to the area, but one recent one is “Rock Climbs of Placerville” by William H. Cottrell. It’s now in its second edition and costs $14.

If you want a vicarious look, there are more than 100 photos of climbers in action at the gorge this past March on the Web (www.onetreepc.com).

To get there, head toward Placerville on Highway 50, then get off at Missouri Flat Road and head south. Turn onto Bucks Bar Road, and in about three miles you’ll be there.

North of Placerville on the South Fork of the American River, there’s a spot along Mosquito Road called the Mosquito Coast. The granite there offers several top rope climbs in the 5.10-5.11 range, plus some boulders under the Mosquito Road Bridge. It’s not nearly as well publicized as the Cosumnes gorge, but is also covered in the Cottrell book.

Just outside Sacramento is the city of Rocklin. With a name like that, there’s just got to be something in the area worth climbing. Right? Well, sorta. It’s Deer Creek Park, a small bouldering spot just off Pacific Avenue, between Farron Street and Ruhkala Road. There aren’t many problems to tackle, and there can be some dirt and undergrowth to deal with.

But those who live in the area have some pride in Deer Creek Park. And if you are zooming along Interstate 80 and need a break, all you need to do is pull off the freeway at the Pacific Avenue exit

Labels: climbing, hot spots

During Northern California’s rainy season, it helps to remember that parts of the southern end of the state can stay a lot drier. That means more opportunities to get out and climb.

San Diego is one such region. Most years San Diego sees less than 10 inches of rain, and sometimes as little as six inches. And it offers a couple of thousand climbing routes, both bouldering and top roping.

It’s easy to do some scouting from your computer. For details about places, visit San Diego Rock. You’ll find more free guides in PDF format, plus descriptions of individual climbing areas ranging from the popular to the obscure. Most popular by far is Mission Gorge, also credited as the oldest climbing site in the area. It’s in Mission Trails Regional Park and features more than 180 routes.

The San Diego Rock site also tells you which areas have been closed or otherwise should be avoided. Links will take you to free topos at other sites. There’s also a set of San Diego-specific topos at www.climbingtoposofsandiego.com.

Another source for detailed information, often with photos, is Rockclimbing.com. Go straight to the San Diego section and see what other climbers have to say about specific routes.

Don’t forget to check in with the Access Fund for news and alerts. Late last year the Access Fund reported that housing development was threatening access to the popular Santee Boulders area. While efforts are being made to get the city of San Diego to set aside the area containing the boulders, the bureaucracy is proving tough to navigate. You may want to visit the site while you can. On the other hand, the Access Fund reports that the Magnolia Boulders nearby are now under the control of the state Fish & Game Department.

And be aware that the U.S. Forest Service is considering some seasonal closures within the Cleveland National Forest to protect the Golden Eagles and the Prairie Falcon.

Labels: Access Fund, climbing, hot spots

The Las Vegas area, famous for its glitz and gambling, also offers some of the greatest rock climbing in the world. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, covering nearly 200,000 acres only a few miles west of town, has a couple of thousand climbing routes, mostly on sandstone. You can spend anywhere from a couple of hours to a couple of days on a route. There’s plenty of bouldering too.

Bolting is legal in some areas and illegal in others, so get to know the area before you start out. The federal Bureau of Land Management has its own guidebook to the area, but there are others on the market.

Remember where sandstone gets its name. Even the best of it can get crumbly, especially when it’s wet.

Boulderers also should take to heart the name of Boulder City to the southeast of Las Vegas. That’s the nearest town to Keyhole Canyon, where the annual Keyhole Classic Bouldering Competition is held in the fall.

Then there’s Arrow Canyon, a limestone slot canyon about an hour north of Las Vegas near the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. In addition to a range of grades from 5.8 to 5.12, it also features a couple of caves.

You don’t even have to leave town to find sport climbing. In Lone Mountain Park there’s a spot called Urban Crag. It’s limestone too, and recommended by the Bureau of Land Management as an alternative when the sandstone at Red Rock is wet.

Here are a few things to remember if you go:

* Even in the relatively gentle spring and fall, this is still the Mojave Desert. Take plenty of water with you. Also remember that Sandstone gets weak when it gets wet, so don’t climb for the first day or two after a rainstorm. The bigger the storm, the longer you should wait.

* There’s a lot of Native American rock art in the area. Don’t climb within 100 feet of it.

* It’s a popular place, so the routes nearest the access roads are likely to get crowded on a nice day.

* Last but not least: when you’re done climbing, you don’t have to travel far for food and entertainment!

Labels: climbing, hot spots, Las Vegas

Winter brings a special kind of climbing challenge: ice. We’re not talking here about avoiding it, we’re talking about climbing it. Imagine ascending a frozen waterfall and you’ve got the idea. And one of the best places to do it is in the San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado.

Since 1995 the Ouray Ice Park in the Uncompahgre Gorge has offered free ice climbing, and this year it opened on Dec. 16. Or if you want to wait until after the new year, January brings the park’s annual Ouray Ice Festival, which is also its main fund-raising event. The festival features exhibition climbing, free clinics, seminars, slide shows, and gear demos.

Routes are never a problem as the park has a couple of miles of piping and can send water down the face of any rock that needs fresh ice. "With cold temperatures it really takes only two or three days,” says Erin Eddy, president of Ouray Ice Park Inc.

In some ways climbing ice follows the same rules as climbing rock.

“I think safety is the first thing,” Eddy says. “Know your knots. Know your limitations. Get competent instruction if you need it.”

But ice climbing also takes some special equipment such as ice tools and crampons. “You can write a $1,000 check pretty easily,” says Eddy, but the equipment can last for years.

For a taste of the ice fest, check out the series of videos at http://climbing.onsight-media.com.

But there are back-country routes in the region as well, and plenty of private guides to take you there. Bridal Veil Falls and Ingram Falls are within sight of the town of Telluride. The town of Ames has it’s own Ames Falls to climb, along with some smaller ones. Markham Connolly, director of operations for Touchstone, lived in Telluride for 10 years and call Bridal Veil and Ames the two classics. Bridal Veil is the largest waterfall in Colorado. Ingram rarely freezes into a single waterfall from top to bottom, however.

“When I did it, we had to do it in two stages,” he says. Because those two and Ames are all close to one another, some people try to do all three in a single day. “But that’s pretty ambitious,” Connolly says.

For people just getting into ice, Ouray may be a better bet. “It’s safe, easy -- just like climbing in a gym, but it’s outside,” Connolly says.

If you do head out into untended territory, Eddy recommends getting a guide. That’s avalanche country out there, and you want to be with someone who knows the terrain. Within the ice park, though, the environment is easier and friendlier, and all the bolts are already in place.

As Telluride and Ouray are only a 45-minute drive apart, you may have time to try both.

Labels: climbing, hot spots, Markham Connolly

Check out the Valley in zoomable gigapixel glory at www.xrez.com

If you are looking to climb a route on El Capitan or Half Dome you can scope the whole route from the comfort of your home.

Made by a consortium of digital artists, these photos are outstanding. Check out the haul bags on El Cap (if you can find them), a party topping out on Zodiac and another on the Teflon corner pitch of the Salathe.

According to Eric Hanson, one of the guys who shot this stuff they are planning on re-shooting El Cap at higher resolution and in the summer when it is covered with parties. So keep checking in on this project.

Labels: climbing, El Capitan, hot spots

Say you’ve got an urge to climb, but not much time. You want something out in the fresh air, but you don’t want to spend most of the day driving. And you are starting from the densely populated Bay Area.

Paul Barraza, manager of Berkeley Ironworks, suggests heading for Mickey’s Beach. Sometimes known as Red Rock Beach, Mickey’s is about a mile south of Stinson Beach in Marin County, right off Highway 1. Both bouldering and rock climbing are available.

“There probably is not a lot of good stuff for true beginners,” Barraza cautions. “There’s not a lot of stuff below 5.10. For moderates and intermediate climbing that would be a good range.”

Route names, like Holy Mackerel, Endless Bummer and Shell Shock should hint at what to expect.

There are always at least a few people out at Mickey’s Beach, but it’s not usually crowded, Barraza says. Remember that some climbing routes are smack up against the water, so be aware of tide tables. Coastal weather can play a role too. Summers can get pretty foggy, but you might catch a clear day and get baked by the sun. Clear weather is more common during the rest of the year. Always expect some wind.

“If you have a bad day climbing there, at least you are on the beach,” Barraza notes.

And watch out for distractions when you are climbing. It’s a nude beach.

Labels: climbing, hot spots

Urban Climber Magazine last week announced the launch of UCTV Video Map, which offers maps, video listings and the ability to virtually fly around the globe to find climbing videos anywhere in the world.

Someone using the new feature can click and drag the maps, zoom in and out, and when over a chosen area videos related to the specific spot pop up in bubbles. The new map service supports Internet Explorer, Safari and Mozilla browsers. All live videos on UCTV have been mapped, and the entire globe is covered.

Since its launch earlier this year, UCTV has rapidly developed a global audience of viewers. The ongoing development of the site has seen a number of new features and enhancements coming out almost monthly, including Clip of the Week, My Channel, and now the Video Map. The North Face is the founding sponsor of UCTV.

Labels: climbing, hot spots

Northern CA Access Issues

According to the Access Fund, this summer the Easter Sierra Climbers Coaltion put out the word to avoid Clarks Canyon, an area near Bishop. Staying away will let hawks and eagles nest in peace on the spectular cliffs of “Area 13.” The birds need their space (at least a city block’s worth) so the itty bitty chicks are not stressed by the sight and sound of nearby climbers.

The good news is, it’s probably ok to climb there as of August 1st! Please direct any questions to the Eastern Sierra Climbers Coalition.

Each summer the face of Lover's Leap Rock in the Eldorado National Forest is closed from late April 21 through September. Climbing elsewhere will let falcons raise healthy young.

The Access Fund specifies that “the closure includes being upon or within 30 feet of the face of the Lover's Leap Rock, or within 30 feet of the top edge of Lover's Leap Rock, from the Bookmark route on the east to the Hourglass route on the west. For updates throughout the season or to learn more visit the National Forest Service website.

Labels: Access Fund, climbing, hot spots, Lover's Leap

The “1st Annual Bear Valley Boulder Bash” is coming to the High Sierra this August 18-20, 2006. This unique festival blends the thrills of outdoor rock climbing through education, competition and celebration. It doesn’t matter if you are new to outdoor rock climbing or have scaled the cliffs for years, the Bear Valley Boulder Bash has something for everyone, including kids. The centerpiece of the weekend is an outdoor bouldering competition with cash prizes on Saturday afternoon. Afterwards celebrate and unwind at the BaseCamp Lodge in Bear Valley with an organic dinner buffet, slideshow and live music. To learn more about the festival events, schedules and prices please visit the MAS website or give us a call (209) 753-6556 ext. 1.

Labels: climbing, hot spots

Can You See the Ironman Traverse from Space?

Can you identify the picture on the right?

Maybe, if you can zoom in close enough using Google Earth.

Google Earth streams the world over wired and wireless networks enabling users to virtually go anywhere on the planet and see places in photographic detail. This is not like any map you have ever seen. This is a 3D model of the real world, based on real satellite images combined with maps, guides to restaurants, hotels, entertainment, businesses and more. You can zoom from space to street level instantly and then pan or jump from place to place, city to city, even country to country.

Closer to home, if you enter “Grotto Rock Park, Berkeley, CA” you will zoom to Indian Rock on Google Earth.

Enter “Chalk Bluff Road, Bishop, CA” for a virtual visit to the Happy Boulders.

Even Berkeley Iron Works shows up on Google Earth (hey, whose beater is that in the parking lot?).

Yosemite also shows up (check out El Cap, and Curry Village), but not in high resolution. The highest resolution imagery is for climbing areas that are in or very near urban areas. So you’ll still have to go in person to hunt for new lines.


As for the picture, it is Curry Village from above Glacier Point Apron.

Labels: climbing, hot spots, Yosemite

Now that the weather is nice outside, many people are starting to head outside to climb. But what if you don't know what it takes to climb outside. Berkeley Ironworks offers outside clinics geared to get indoor climbers up to speed to climb outside. Berkeley Ironworks employee Dave Altman has been climbing for more than 30 years and his outdoor classes are renowned for useful information and historical anecdotes.

Which clinic is right for you?

Basic anchors, knots, rappelling, simple self rescue, & climbing on rock unlike anything in the gym.

More advanced anchors, gear placement, technique, and intro to leading.

Footwork, spotting, games, history, using bouldering to improve technique for bigger climbs & as an independent sport. Emphasis will be on types of climbing different than in the gym.

For more information, prices and schedule; check out Dave's webpage.

Labels: Berkeley Ironworks, climbing, hot spots

A morning at Split Rock, Tiburon! Here is your chance to take it outside for some easy Top Rope climbing.

Saturday, June 24th 9:30 - noon
$55 non-members / $45 members
Basic anchor setups, gear talk and lots of climbing

We will provide rental gear if needed - please let us know. You must know how to belay. Please remember to bring water, snacks, sun stuff, and your gear. This is great for beginning climbers interested in outdoor climbing and anchor setup.

Advanced signups only thru Mission Cliffs. 415-550-0515

Labels: climbing, hot spots, mission cliffs

Saturday, June 3rd & Saturday June 17th

Touchstone San Jose invites members and friends to neighboring Castle Rock State Park for a day of the finest sandstone bouldering around. A great way to meet other members, boulder outside for the first time, or get beta on your projects! Grab your crash pad if you have one, and meet at the parking lot on Skyline Blvd or the Magoo boulders around 11:00am on 6/3 and 6/17. Hope to see you there!

Labels: climbing, event, hot spots