After periods of intense workouts- like a Crossfit session at GWPC, a few hours of bouldering in the wave at Ironworks, or an intense yoga work out at Mission Cliffs, the body needs nutrients to replenish spent glycogen stores and build muscle.

While there are many options out there for post-workout nutrition, one of the best, and simplest, is Chocolate Milk. Many people were unaware of the benefits of the drink until Michael Phelps drew attention to the beverage at the 2004 Olympics, when he was seen drinking chocolate drinks after swims. Several different medical studies have been conducted on the benefits of chocolate milk including the Journal of Sports Nutrition and Exercise Metabolism back in February 2008.

Chocolate milk has been discovered to work just as well as regular sports drinks, most notably, like Gatorade when consumed after exercise. It works best for re-hydrating the body and helping to rebuild muscle that was depleted of energy during a workout.
Many magazines such as Runner’s World and Fitness have done articles employing the benefits of chocolate milk after exercise. Based on studies done by Dr. Joel Stager that conducted research on bicyclists who drank Gatorade and chocolate milk after exhausting their muscles, shows that those who drank chocolate milk were able to recover quickly and last just as long while bicycling to those who had Gatorade.

Chocolate milk is packed with carbohydrates and protein, something that depleted muscles need to recover. When you exercise you contract your muscles to an extent and many endurance athletes may exhaust their muscles and this is why restoring and hydrating your body is extremely important. Water is simply not enough when it comes to refueling and that is where chocolate milk takes a step over sports drinks. Though sports drinks contain an amount of water, they lack natural protein and carbohydrates that are naturally occurring in milk. And with Vitamins A and D plus calcium provided through milk, it helps in bone strengthening and building muscle.


A 2007 British study found that regular milk also helped restore fluid levels in the body post-exercise in the heat. Milk has the right amount of carbohydrates and protein that the body needs in order to recover tired muscles and for quicker results. Water is not substantial enough to provide these essential nutrients and that is why many sports doctors and nutritionists are now recommending chocolate milk as a recovery drink over regular sports drink or water.



The high amount of water contained in chocolate milk is one of the main reasons why it’s chosen over regular water because of the extra vitamins and protein contained in it that replenishes the body’s water content quicker that was lost as sweat during exercise. Chocolate milk also contains small amounts of sugar and sodium allowing the body to stabilize quicker as it allows them to retain water and gain energy which is an essential process during recovery.

When comparing water and sports drinks it becomes clear which is best for you. Of course water does the ultimate process of replenishing fluids after sweat loss, but unfortunately that’s all it does. Water does not include any added vitamins or minerals unless it’s specially fortified with these substances. Energy drinks on the other hand provide a way to replenish and balance electrolytes in the body.

As an affordable option to expensive replenishment drinks, chocolate milk has also been made a staple in the diet of many Yosemite diets. On a severe budget one summer, Ironworks climber and road warrior, James Lucas spent three months drinking only chocolate milk. He crushed that season.

Read more about chocoloate milk at Chocolate Milk.Com and Chocolate Milk as a recovery drink.

Labels: chocolate milk, energy replenishment

Hailing from Charlotte NC, Cuz, Brian Hedrick, moved to the bay area with the intentions of working for three weeks on a boat. Instead of becoming a mariner, Cuz joined the Touchstone Route setting team, taking his experience as a setter at Charlotte's Inner Peaks to a larger arena. All the time climbing and training in the gym has paid off for Cuz who has had a banner Bishop season this year, completing Buttermilker Stand (V12), The Mystery (V12), Haroun and the Sea of Stories(V11/12), Michael Caine SDS (V12), flashing Acid Wash (v10), and crushing a number of other double digit problems. The 23 year old strong man took some time off from his hectic schedule of destroying the boulders to answer a few questions.


Cuz crushing Haroun and the Sea of Stories (v12)

How did you start climbing?

I've been climbing for going on 11 years. I started out at a small climbing gym in NC called Inner Peaks. My first trip into the gym was an end of the year Team Party for my baseball team. After the first day of climbing, My dad got my little brother and I a membership.

Where did you get the nickname Cuz?

It's a terrible story....

As with any job, especially with one with as much ego associated it as route setter, there is a significant harassment period for newcomers. A bit of innocent heckling is to be expected. I was no exception. For the first month, the rest of the crew was trying to come up with a good insignia for me instead of just my initials, BH.

One day while setting the Yosemite Wall at Mission Cliffs, a fellow route setter Dave Wallach decided to get stuck on the idea that EVERYONE from the South calls each other Cuz. He was persistent while using a terrible interpretation of the vernaculars of the South. The rest of the crew got into it, naturally. It stuck and the rest is history. Now it's rare for anyone to even know my real name!




How did you get so strong?

The right application of motivation is the key to climbing harder in my opinion. I've never worked on finger strength and have only trained my core. Progressing through climbing is more about the experience you obtain from many ascents of all grades. You will never lose experience from climbing a problem or a route just because it's not the grade you think you can climb. Be motivated for the number but more importantly, inspired by the line.


What are you climbing goals?

My climbing goals for the year are to climb consistent V13 and to climb at least one V14. I want to rope climb 5.14b or harder and I want to up my trad climbing abilities and get a few ascents of both El Cap and Half Dome. I want to try and free Half Dome's Regular Route as well.

Labels: Brian Hedrick, Buttermilker, Haroun and the Sea of Stories

After a years worth of regular monthly visits to Sacramento Pipeworks, Options For Youth, a program for at-risk youth saw some amazing results. Says Brad Astin, Outdoor Experience Supervisor: "After crunching some numbers following our Winter Graduation, we found that the Outdoor Experience Program had a 95% retention rate among students and graduated 5 of its participants already. The retention rate means that of the 20 "at-risk" students who participated in the program, only 1 had dropped out of school as of 12/18/09. That number is far superior to our overall population and speaks volumes to the value of the experiences our students had in the program. We are very excited to get it going again!"
Congratulations, Brad. We at Pipeworks are looking forward to again playing a small part in the success of all the students in the Outdoor Experience program!

Labels: Brad Astin, Options for Youth, Outdoor experience program

For the fifth consecutive year, the Touchstone Zero Gravity Team were the Northern CA Regional champions at the USAC Northern CA ABS11 Regional Championships at City Beach, Fremont, CA on January 16, 2010. Facing 85 other competitors from ages 8-19, Eric Sanchez, Joshua Levin, Sera Busse and Nicholas Bradley managed to rise above the heavy competition to become regional champions.

A week later at the USAC SCS Adult National Championshipsin Salt Lake City, Team Zero Gravity had another outstanding performance. Eric Sanchez was the

More information about USA Climbing can be found at their website.

Next up are the ABS 11 National Championships in Alexandria, Virginia,
February 12-14, 2010.



For those between the ages of 11-18, who want to take their climbing to the next level, and improve their strength, technique, and mental focus, there will be an informational meeting Tuesday February 23 at 7:30 pm. Scot Jenerik, coach of Zero Gravity and 5 IFSC World Youth Championships competitors, and North Face sponsored athlete and 5.14 rock climber, Scott Cory will be holding a meeting for another youth team in the bay area.

Labels: Scot Jenerik, Youth World Championships, Zero Gravity

Mission Cliffs has just added another Abs + Core class on Wednesday mornings beginning Feb. 3rd from 7:30am - 8:30am.

Alison is a lifelong athlete and avid climber who first discovered Pilates in 2006 when a series of back injuries left her in pain and unable to participate fully in the activities she loved. Lo and behold, the practice of Pilates helped her to strengthen and stabilize her core, which led to a happier life and, as an added benefit, a much improved climbing ability. Desiring to spread this discovery to her peers, Alison completed her teacher training in 2008 at the EHS Pilates Institute where she trained with several outstanding instructors, including Ellie Herman. Alison believes strongly in the benefits of Pilates and loves to challenge students of all levels to increase their overall strength and level of fitness. Her classes draw on Pilates concepts, and emphasize core strength, balance and flexibility.



Core the Pilates Way is a challenging and fast-paced core conditioning class. This hour of exercise draws inspiration from the Pilates Method and will not only strengthen the core muscle groups of your body, but will also improve your balance and flexibility on the climbing wall and in your other athletic pursuits. The class combines high numbers of reps with very little rest between exercises to ensure that you will sweat and work every minute! Many exercises include modifications for those who are struggling, or those who want an increased challenge, so everyone is welcome, no matter what your level of fitness. You will notice a positive difference in your core strength if you attend consistently for a couple of months!

Labels: Ellie Herman, mission cliffs, Pilates

Becky Trafecanty along with John Vallejo and other members of the Touchstone staff made a great video of the Touchstone Rope Series Comp in Oakland's Great Western Power Company. Check out Her awesome video.

TRS GWPC 2010 from Becky Trafecanty on Vimeo.

Labels: Becky Trafecanty, Great Western Power Co., Touchstone Roped Series

The Access Fund, an organization that helps to protect crag and climbing area access, released a statement regarding the future Merced River Plan, which will affect significant amounts of climbing in Yosemite National Park.


"We need your help to influence the latest Merced River Plan, which could restrict climbing access and camping in Yosemite Valley, depending on how the Park prepares its new revised user capacity program. At issue is access to iconic climbs including those found on The Rostrum, Cookie Cliff, and Middle Cathedral Rock (everything ¼ mile on either side of the river). This plan will also affect all travel through the management area to locations just outside the river corridor, which brings into play all climbing in Yosemite Valley including El Capitan and even Half Dome. Another consequence of this litigation is the increased likelihood that camping will become even more scarce while the number of lodging units remains largely unchanged.

Please write Yosemite National Park by February 4 and support the preservation of climbing access in the Valley! With our easy-to-use letter writing tool, it only takes two minutes to make your voice heard.

Thanks for your support

Your Friends at the Access Fund"


The Merced River and Liberty Bell

Also, the National Park Service has issued a notice requiring permits for weekend Half Dome hikers. This permit system affects hikers mostly as NPS stated, "Rock climbers who reach the top of Half Dome without entering the subdome area can descend on the Half Dome Trail without a permit." Those who top out Snake Dike or the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome will not require a permit.

Read the comments Jesse McGahey, The Yosemite Climbing Ranger and Liason, made regarding the permit system on Supertopo.com.



Half Dome Hiking Permits

Permits to hike to the top of Half Dome are now required on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays, and federal holidays when the cables are up. This is an interim measure to increase safety along the cables while the park develops a long-term plan to manage use on the Half Dome Trail.

Beginning in 2010, all people using the Half Dome Trail above the subdome must have a permit in possession on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays, and federal holidays when the cables are up. A maximum of 400 permits will be issued each of these days. (Before the permit system, fewer than 400 people used this trail on weekdays, while about 800 people used this trail on weekends and holidays, on average.)

In 2010, permits are available up to about four months in advance to one week in advance only through the National Recreation Reservation Service. Permits are not available in the park or on a first-come, first-served basis. Demand for permits will be very high; availability may last only a matter of minutes on the first day permits become available.

Note: Backpackers with an appropriate wilderness permit can receive a Half Dome permit when they pick up their wilderness permit with no additional reservation required. Rock climbers who reach the top of Half Dome without entering the subdome area can descend on the Half Dome Trail without a permit.

The Half Dome Cables are usually in place and available for use the third Friday in May, conditions permitting. The last day to use them usually is Columbus Day Monday. We can not guarantee the cables will be available on any given date. If you choose to get a permit for dates in May or October, there is an increased chance the cables will not be in place.

If you are unable to hike Half Dome for any reason (including weather, cables not available, illness, etc.) on the day you have a permit, we will not be able to provide a permit for a different date.

Labels: Access Fund, NPS, Yosemite Access

Capturing the moment of climbing, the second where the subject is just right, the lighting is perfect, and the scenery amazes, isn't easy. More likely are the instances like this photo- where some dude in a Hawaiian Shirt poses on a problem that he can't do.



A photographer with work in climbing magazines like Rock & Ice, Alpinist, and Climbing , John Vallejo has had his share of good and bad photos.

Recently, John took pictures of the Touchstone Rope Comp at Great Western Power Company in Oakland. He employed a few different lenses, a remote flash, and an artistic eye to capture some rad photos.


Employing some flash photography, John shoot Touchstone route setter, Brian Hedrick on a 5.12 route.


John took this picture of Hans Florine in an excellent move.


Here John did a good job of capturing not only Andy Liu climbing but the logo and Al Liu watching.


Maria Schriver emerging from the overhang and the shadow.

Checking out climbing blogs and photography sites is a learn a little bit more about how to take that perfect climbing photo. For some other great climbing images and a little background on some professional photographers check out Max Hasson, Ben Ditto, Mikey Schaefer, and Jim Thornburg.

The Digital Photography School recently interviewed climbing photographer Kamil Bialous, who explains some of the challenges of taking pictures of climbing. This is another great reference.

Good luck capturing the image. Get out there and practice!

Labels: Ben Ditto, Climbing photography, Jim Thornburg, John Vallejo, Max Hasson, Mikey Schaefer

Saturday, January 30 from 10:30 to 12:30 at Diablo Rock Gym, Sarah Pascual will be leading a Yoga clinic with a focus on Sun Saluations.

Surya Namaskar:
The Sun is the illuminator of the world and the giver of life. With 108 Sun Salutations, a complete Mala, we will honor the sun and the spring season it signifies. It is said that the classical salutation to he sun, or surya namaskar, contains the whole practice within it. Sun salutations develop strength and endurance, and can be a powerful tool for meditation and self transformation. Come cultivate positive energy to bring in a new season.

Sign up in person or on the phone
$10 for members
$34 for non-members



The Salute to the Sun:

Labels: Diablo Rock Gym, Sarah Pascual, Sun Salutations

The crowd chanted. Phil Heron shot for the hold on the sustained climb His body started to fall from the wall. Screams of "Fight!" and "You can do it!" echoed through the lead area at Great Western Power Company on Friday, January 26. Phil pulled his body back tight to the wall, and headed to the anchors, making an impressive first try redpoint of the 5.13 route. The excitement of the crowd, and their positive energy was palpable as regular Touchstone members and visitors stepped up to do some of their hardest climbing ever.

At the entrance Andrew Descalo, the manager of Diablo Rock Gym, registered and handed out scorecards to the 220 climbers who competed. The turnout was the largest for an adult roped climb comp at any of the Touchstone gyms.



Scores were based on how well the climber did on each route. Three boxes were on each route- one mid way, one two thirds, and one at the top. Climbers scored points based on how high they reached, and whether it was their first, second, or third try on the route. Every route was climbed at the comp, and at the upcoming comps, the setters will be adding additional routes to help disperse the crowds and to allow for a greater variety.

Paul Legan dropped his knee hard on the wall and surfed out left. He climbed solidly through the climbing. Kyle, one of the Touchstone route setters, had set a difficult and highly technical climb through a long sweep in the lead cave. It must have been the chanting of the crowd that invigorated Paul, because he flashed the route, making one of his most impressive sends to date.


Paul Legan flashing the hardest route at the comp

Phil Heron stepped up to the 5.13b/c route, and fought his way up it. Tired from flashing the previous route, he was unable to clip the second to last draw. Unsatisfied with his ascent, he attempted the route a second time, making the difficult clip but falling shortly after. Some impressive climbing to say the least.

Phil on his second try, this time doing the drop knee maneuever and making the difficult clip.

After the comp started winding down, the pizza showed up and so did the beer. Lyn Verinsky, the manager at GWPC, and Patti Phillips, the Touchstone retail guru, served up slices and poured beer to the long line of hungry and thirsty climbers. After the huge stack of pizzas were devoured and the beer was drank, the competitors all got t-shirts.

The next of the Touchstone Rope series comps will be at Diablo Rock Gym on February 19.

For a list of results check out the comp page.

Ellis, one of the front desk staff at Berkeley Ironworks, took all the photos for this blog.
Check out more of Ellis's comp photos and images at his blog site- the SignalElement

Check out the rest of the photos from the comp at the Touchstone Gallery

Labels: Paul Legan, Phil Heron, Signal Element, Touchstone Roped Series