This morning, Alex Honnold and Diablo Rock Gym Manager, Hans Florine set a new speed record for the Nose of El Capitan. The 3,000 foot vertical granite cliff has been the home of the Grand Prix of Yosemite speed climbing. The pair started at 6:30 a.m. and topped out just before 9 a.m., setting a new record of 2:23:51. This is 8% faster than the previous record held by Dean Potter and Sean Leary.
Florine has been a long time contender for the Nose speed record. Florine has owned the fastest times on the route with Steve Schneider, Yuji Hirayami, and others.
Berkeley Ironworks has a new yoga teacher for Friday evenings. Alok Rocheleau, will be joining the staff of amazing yoga instructors at the gym.
From a young age Alok Rocheleau has been interested in this union, finding it in nature and the arts. Alok started his journey with asanas 12 years ago with a background as a personal trainer and athlete. In 2004, he took the 200-hour yoga teacher training at Mount Madonna Center, which focuses on classical Ashtanga yoga through the teachings of Baba Hari Das. Hari Das is a master yogi whose silent example and emphasis on karma yoga inspired Alok to stay at the community and teach yoga for a year. Since then he has been back to MMC three times to assist the yoga teacher training. In the last 5 years he traveled extensively, studying a variety of yoga styles including Ashtanga, Iyengar, Anusara, Shadow, Acroyoga, and Hatha. He likes to creatively blend all styles, emphasizing the union of breath, body and mind infused with a sense of play. Alok has also taught regularpranayama (breathing practices) and meditation classes.
Recently, long-time member Collin Poseley shot a cool video of Sacramento Pipeworks. When Posseley is not busy producing media content for the Sacramento area news, he has photographed and shot video for a number of the Pipeworks comps.
The Touchstone Rope Series 6th competition is coming to Great Western Power Company this Friday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. This comp is guaranteed to be a ton of fun. There will be plenty of food, beer, temporary tattoos, new routes, lots of climbers and a great atmosphere to have high quality fun.
Knowing the correct way to perform an exercise is essential for getting stronger and also crucial to prevent injury. In the latest installment of the Touchstone training videos, Justin Alarcon demonstrates how to properly perform a pull-up.
"A pull-up is the most basic and perhaps the oldest climbing exercise around," says Touchstone trainer Justin Alarcon. "While this exercise is often over-emphasized by many aspiring climbers, this exercise is a simple way of strengthening the pulling muscles we all use when our technique is forgotten."
Touchstone athlete, Ethan Pringle has been getting after it. In the past year, he has traveled across the world climbing some of the best routes and boulder problems. In between his ninja assassin ascents, Pringle managed to get great footage of the climbing he's done.
On Saturay, June 16th, Pringle will hosting a dyno clinic at Ironworks. Pringle will be showing 15 climbers the techniques necessary to make enormous moves. Afterwards, from 6 p.m. to 7 p.m., Pringle will be showing a number of climbing movies. There will be footage from his trip to Red Rocks with former Touchstone setter Mark Heal, there will be a bit about the first ascent of a new 5.14d he completed at Mount Charleston, and footage from Huecos Rancheros, a video featuring some of the best bouldering in Hueco.
There is no maximum number for the presentation but folks need to pre-register as there will be beer and pizza.
On Saturday June 16th and Sunday June 17th, Climbing Resources Advocates Greater Sacramento (CRAGS) will be hosting the 3rd annual clean-up of Lover's Leap. This is a perfect opportunity to help maintain one of Califorinia's best climbing areas.
A picture of Lover's Leap, the red line shows the classic Haystack (5.8)
Touchstone trainer, Justin Alarcon knows the value of a strong core. Solid abdominal muscles keep your body tight to the wall on overhanging terrain, they allow you to reach farther for jams on vertical crack routes, and they help you step your foot up higher on low angle rock. There are numerous exercises to help strengthen your core and it's easy to get confused by all of the options.. Alarcon offers some great insight into a perfect core exercise. "Floor bridges are a great introductory exercise for developing the body tension needed to climb on steep overhangs and tenuous vertical faces," says Alarcon. In this video, Alarcon deomnstrates the proper way to perform a floor bridge
In a few short weeks, the summer solstice will be here soon. The days are longer than ever. It's a great time to head out and climb those long trad routes in the Sierra, in Yosemite, in the Needles, and across California. All of the aforementioned areas require a solid base of traditional climbing experience, that means being able to build solid anchors, place safe gear, and knowing how to navigate seas of granite. Learning the skills necessary to climb in this places takes a lot of instruction, experience, and dedication. To help you get started with some basic ideas about traditional climbing gear placements, there are some great instructional videos.
Picture being high on the face of one of the world's largest granite cliffs. If something went wrong what would happen? On Wednesday, May 30, a 22 year old climber was leading the Pancake Flake pitch on the Nose of El Capitan. The climber was two-thirds of the way up the route, above the Great Roof, when he took a 30 foot lead fall.
His large fall resulted in a broen leg and possibly a broken pelvis. The National Park Service employees a number of rescue personell with strong climbing backgrounds to take care of such situations. The Yosemite Search and Rescue Team (YOSAR) assessed the situation.
Berkeley Ironworks just picked up two great new cams. One the small side, Aliens are now available at the gym. These flexible stem camming units fit perfectly into pin scars, horizontal placements, and difficult to protect granite. They are a mandatory requirement for any El Capitan arsenal and are loved by Yosemite climbers. Ironworks has a full array of sizes from tiny tips to big fingers. Get ready for your next finger splitter with these great cams.
Strong fingers are essential for climbing. Bearing down on small holds allows climbers to summit many difficult climbs. "Finger curls for climbers are like spinach for Popeye," says Justin Alarcon, a NASM certified personal trainer with the Touchstone gyms, "they make your forearms swole! But seriously, its a reasonably safe way to work on developing the finger strength needed to pull onto some really bad holds." In the video below, the 5.13 climbing trainer demonstrates a great way to increase your finger strength.