Fixed Gear at Crags

Heading to sport crags where many of the draws are fixed or out to Yosemite where there are many old anchors means knowing a bit about the dangers of insitu gear, especially of worn fixed biners.

On September 22, Mario Luginbühl and a friend went climbing at Magletsch, in the St.Gallen canton, Switzerland. Luginbühl was trying to work out a sequence and took a controlled fall. This proved fatal as the fixed quickdraw had been worn sharp through extensive use and cut the rope. Luginbühl fell 85 feet to his death. A similar instance happened a few years ago in the Red River Gorge when a climber cut their rope on the second bolt of a popular climb.

CRW 6017

Read more: Fixed Gear at Crags

More Yosemite Bouldering

Yosemite season is in full swing. The fall temps are here. The conditions are getting perfect for the bouldering on some of the world's best granite boulders. Kyle O'Meara, a Washington transplant who has been crushing California climbing, made this cool video of a couple of Yosemite classics that he climbed this spring.


Get amped for Yosemite climbing this fall!

 

Prenatal Yoga at GWPC

Prenatal yoga is a supportive way to practice yoga postures (asana) as well as breath work (pranayama) and relaxation safely while pregnant. This yoga is done at a slower pace to ensure safety and stability of your body and to build strength, all while creating more space for your baby to grow and preparing you for the birth process. Postures will be practiced in both a flowing style (Vinyasa) and individually.

prenatal-yoga

Read more: Prenatal Yoga at GWPC

Touchstone Setters at MetalMark

The Touchstone setting crew rallied down to Fresno this week to reset the entire gym.  A group of 8 setters descended on MetalMark to establish some amazing new problems and routes.  "We put up about 35 boulder problems yesterday ranging from V0-V7. They all turned out really good, I think we all get psyched to set on terrain that we don't know like the backs of our hands," said setter Jeremy Ho. 

Bay Area Routesetters

Jeremy talked a little about the local setters Travis and Cole. "The guys down here have been doing a killer job, the boulder problems of theirs that we climbed were excellent."  The Touchstone crew got feedback via Facebook about the types of climbs that MetalMark members were looking for- shorter, more powerful boulder problems.  

Jeremy setting lead wall
 

The Touchstone setters do an amazing job of keeping all the gyms fresh with new routes.  Stop by your nearest gym and check out the newest routes and boulder problems.

Geological Map of El Capitan

Yosemite National Park geologist, Greg Stock created an amazing view of El Capitan recently using a new type of mapping. "The movie was produced from terrestrial laser scanning (LiDAR) data collected from El Cap Meadow, with many millions of individually georeferenced points. The grayscale values relate to the reflectivity of the rock, which is why the North America diorite appears so dark relative to the surrounding granite.

"


Read more: Geological Map of El Capitan

Return to Meru: North Face Speaker Series

On Wednesday night, October 10th at 7 p.m., alpinists Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, and Renan Ozturk will be presenting the saga of their ascent of India's Mount Meru, an ice- coated granite fang in the Himalayas.In 2008, the team of three suffered a devastating defeat a mere few hundred feet from the summit.  Three years later, the men returned to Meru with more grit, determination, and the strength to fit back to the summit.   

 

Meru

 

Jimmy Chin leading a pitch on Mount Meru.

Read more: Return to Meru: North Face Speaker Series

The Zebra Pants Girl

A few nights every week at Berkeley Ironworks, a young girl in zebra striped pants crushes the lead cave and in the Wave boulder at the Touchstone gym. "Zebra Girl", Touchstone desk staff's nickname for Kat Gentry, made a big impact recently when she won the Touchstone Rope Series comp.

gentry2

Read more: The Zebra Pants Girl

Climbing in The Olympics

Imagine competing with the best climbers on a world class climbing wall.   The Touchstone rope series comps, which are in their sixth year, are a demonstration of what climbing could be like in the upcoming Olympics.  The comps are also an important part in climbing's move towards global recognition. 

MissionCliffscomp

Read more: Climbing in The Olympics

How To Clip A Rope

One of the most important parts of lead climbing is clipping the rope correctly. While this seems simple and straight forward, it is easy to back clip, z-clip, and make mistakes that could jeopardize the climbers safety. In this video, Chris Linder shows the proper way to clip a rope. While Linder's video shows the details in a sport climbing aspect, the same rules apply when traditional climbing.

Past blog entries can be found at  http://touchstoneclimbing.blogspot.com/

Facebook

comps

Latest News

Latest Routes

  • MM 3 Routes, 5.9-5.11c
  • MM 2 Routes, 5.10c-5.12a
  • MM 13 Problems, V1-V10

Touchstone's Instagram

Tag your instagram photos with: #touchstoneclimbing