The rain came suddenly to the top of El Capitan. Spring brings sudden weather changes and drenching thunderstorms sweep into Yosemite Valley in a few hours. The intense rain, hail and lightning in the mid to late afternoon can cause serious hazard for climbers. The past week caught me in thunderstorms on the top of El Capitan three days in a row. Preparation helped keep me safe and dry.
Read the Weather Report
There’s a thousand different weather reports to choose from. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) provides excellent weather forecasts that tend to be pessimistic. The chance of rain can be high but the amount of precipitation can be low. A tenth of an inch of rain is minimal. An inch or two of rain can drench you. Watch if you’re hitting the beginning or end of a storm. Knowing the size and impact of the weather helps with what and where you climb.
Find Shelter
The NPS government website suggests, “During a storm, stay away from peaks, ridges, caves, water, and open areas. Seek shelter in low forested areas, but avoid tall, solitary trees. By setting up camp in a safe location before lightning begins, you can enjoy the power and spectacle of a mountain thunderstorm without apprehension.” On the top of El Capitan there are numerous caves to hide during bad weather. I spent a few hours on a sheltered ledge on the side of El Cap two days ago. The overhanging rock above kept me safe and dry while I waited for the weather to pass.
Climb On Overhanging Rock
Steep rock tends to be dry during rain. Jailhouse, in Sonora California, stays dry through even the harshest thundershowers. One of the best places to climb during rain storms is at the gym. Touchstone has facilities through out California to climb at. Wherever you climb, make sure that the rock stays dry during potential weather. Slab climbing in the rain is a horrible idea. Steep sport climbing is far better. Make sure that you don’t get too committed and have easy access to safety if the weather gets bad.
Be Prepared
If you are caught in weather, make sure to bring a rain jacket, matches for a fire, dry clothes, a charged cell phone and a bit of food and water. Find a dry place to wait out the storm. Moving during bad weather is hazardous not only because of lightning strikes but wet rock can be increasingly dangerous to walk over. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Be careful when leaving, as walking on wet rock is especially treacherous.
