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Manager’s Favorite: Buttermilk Stem with Diane Ortega

Every climber has a Project; a route or boulder problem that exposes your weaknesses and shuts you down. For Diane Ortega, the manager of The Studio in San Jose, that project is the Buttermilk Stem in Bishop, California. The problem is graced with slopey holds, requires tons of flexibility, and has sharp rock that bites […]

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Belaying Techniques

Nothing in climbing is more important than belaying. Belayer’s hold their partner’s life. While many people are cavalier about belaying, it’s an essential to pay attention and belay properly. They are significant differences in belaying a sport route, a long traditional climb, or an aid climb. The single most important tenet of belaying is to […]

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Taping for Success

The Salathe Headwall on El Capitan, the North Six Shorter in Indian Creek, and Dog Leg in Joshua Tree are all beautiful routes. These obvious cracks are some of the most enticing lines in climbing.   Crack climbing is beautiful but it also hurts. Anyone who has stuffed their hand into a parallel splitter has […]

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