The semi’s pounded on Highway 15 below me. The loud diesel engines and the jake brakes shook the bridge. The noise reverberated off the walls of the Gorge. I shook my way up the run out slab section on Bogus Pedophile Charges, a classic 5.12d at the Virgin River Gorge. My belayer couldn’t hear me […]
Ryan Moon stepped on the granite edge, curling his fingers on polished granite. The Ironworks employee crimped his way to a bulge. The sequence above stumped him. He went right hand. Then left. He fought the crux and the lactic acid in his forearms. A few minutes later, Bay area hardman Jordan Shackelford stepped up to […]
Tioga Pass is Open! I know there are many other ways into the eastern Sierra, but there is nothing like driving through Tuolumne Meadows to get to a near endless supply of sport, trad and bouldering. Oh, and did I mention free camping and hot springs? And, unlike Yosemite, dogs are OK too… To make […]
Reader Q and A In a blog post last week entitled ‘Learning to Sport Climb,’ we included the following statement when giving tips on climbing routes. “..Feeling relaxed on a sport route is essential. Breathe well. Move efficiently. Despite 13 years of climbing, I still get terrified climbing. To overcome my fear on a difficult […]
Mary-Kate fought through a series of pockets. At the last bolt, she grabbed a sidepull, pressed her foot onto nothing and made a delicate mantle to the anchors. Ecstatic, she clipped the anchors of Pocket Line, a 5.11 at The Wailing Wall, sending her hardest sport route to date. Mary-Kate, a long time boulderer, has […]
-Me: Wanna go out and try Endless Bummer with me this weekend?! -Potential Sport Climbing Partner: No thanks, that thing’s way too bouldery for me. -Potential Bouldering Partner: No thanks, sport climbing sucks. These were the conversations that were most popular when trying to try Endless Bummer out near Mickey’s Beach on the California coast. […]
