The short days of fall are here and many climbers are still chomping at the bit to climb big Yosemite routes Whether maximizing the number of pitches at the crag or moving quickly over a long trad route, the key to fast climbing is efficency. Diablo Rock Gym manager and author of Climb On! Skills For More Efficient Climbing, Hans Florine offered great advice about how to move faster.
Paul Hara photo
Communicate clearly with your partner before and during the climb. This will save more time and make you more efficient, then any other tip. Ie: say: yes and no, not Yeah and Nay. Follow commands with your partners name if there are other climber near by to avoid confusing situations. Know before you leave the belay what the plan is for following the next pitch, hauling sequence etc..
Place Gear Well When free climbing or mostly free climbing, place gear at your chest or below. It makes clipping in much faster and less effort. Make sure to minimize rope drag. The second to extend a piece will save minutes pulling up extra rope to fight the drag.
Paul Hara Photo
Be Organized The time taken to organize rope at each station is almost always shorter then the time taken to feed an un-organized rope. Organize the rack big to small or reverse, or in the order you will need the pieces on the upcoming pitch. Don’t bring gear on lead that you cannot use.
Florine’s last bit of advice is to “Chuck safety to the wind…just kidding.” Being safe on a route will help you climb more confidently
