Traditional climbing offers the chance to scale large formations, to take a set of gear and climb to the top without the need of another party establishing the route.
It is one of the most exciting types of climbing- summits, self-reliance, and huge formations. However, trad climbing can be intimidating! There’s a lot of moving pieces, and when experienced climbers start placing gear they sometimes feel like they’re learning how to rock climb all over again. The climbing requires specific and finding adequate protection gear can be challenging. There are a few things you can do to make the transition to trad easier.
Find the perfect route
Some trad routes can get a little spicy. Do a bit of research and find a route with straightforward placements and climbing within your limits. Leading 5.10 sport rarely translates to 5.10 traditional routes. Set the bar low and move up from there. The first pitch of Jam Crack in Yosemite or Knapsack Crack at Lover Leap are great first timer routes.
Practice the gear on toprope
This tactic stays true for routes of all grades. Bay area rock star, Walker Emerson climbed Flight of the Challenger, a 5.12c in Squamish, but practiced placing the gear on toprope first. He fiddled with the cams, deciding where he would need the small gear and where he should save the bigger pieces. After he dialed out all the gear placements on toprope, he lead the route.
Climb with an experienced partner
Learning from a veteran trad climber makes and enormous difference. They can help you make the decision between using a cam or placing a stopper. They can evaluate your gear placements. If things go awry, they can also escape the belay and provide instruction on how to retreat safely.
Be prepared
Wear comfortable shoes. Bouldering and sport climbing shoes are significantly different than trad shoes. Your feet will be happier and you’ll be able to climb better with appropriate footwear. Minimize the amount of gear dangling from your harness. Keep the experience as simple as possible. Climb in the shade on hot sunny days to maximize friction. Head to the sun only if it’s cold outside.
Have Fun
Trad climbing can be scary. There’s a ton of new things to learn- the gear, the climbing, the anchors, etc. Be relaxed and have fun. It will make things go way smoother. If you’d like more guidance, check out our climbing clinics to learn crack climbing technique, multi-pitch efficiency, or anchor building.
