Who Set This? A Mini Interview Series with the SoCal Routesetters

 
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By Zoey Grinstead

With the gyms closed and everyone given the order to stay at home, we at Touchstone Climbing are doing everything we can to stay positive, motivated, and active. Our routesetters are not shy to that last one. Every day they’re up and down ropes and ladders, constantly moving piles of rocks around; it can kind of seem like a blur, but out of it, we get the climbs from our setters that we all come to know and love (or hate). Zoey, one of the setters down in SoCal, took a moment to have a quick interview with some of our routesetters to help everyone get to know who is behind that tag.

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Ashley Stockman aka ASH

Pronouns: She/Her
Home Gym: Hollywood Boulders

How long have you been climbing and setting?

I’ve been climbing since 2015, so about 5 years, and I’ve been route setting since 2017, so a little over 3 years.

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What inspired you to become a routesetter?

I was interested in creating different styles of movement and wanted to bring some diversity to the setting team at the gym I was working at, and to represent another part of the climbing community in my work.

What is your favorite style of climbing, and how does that translate into your setting?

My favorite style of climbing is technical climbing. Steep, vertical, slab, you name it. I really enjoy hard, precarious movement on all types of holds, but of course, the smaller the better. With this in mind, I try to be multifaceted in the styles I set, but I do tend to set fluid and comfortable sequences. I try to avoid stopper moves, or climbs that are just one hard crux move.

What is the most valuable thing you’ve learned setting at Touchstone Climbing?

Setting for Touchstone, I’ve learned that getting out of my comfort zone for my inspiration is very important for the growth of my setting and expanding my repertoire.

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How are you staying active and motivated during these times?

I have been going on walks and runs daily to try and stay in shape, training on a hangboard, doing simple strength exercises, and pull-ups. The motivation I have been feeding off of has been watching climbing documentaries, and also going through my photo library from previous climbing trips to regain some psych to train and get even stronger.

Do you have any inspirational words for everyone?

Some advice I would give anyone would be to try and push yourself every single workout and training session as much as you can. That could be trying a new workout you’ve been scared of, or just trying to max out on weighted hangs. You’d be surprised what you’re capable of.

Thank you Ash! Stay safe, and hopefully I’ll see you soon.

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Joe Yun aka JY

Pronouns: He/Him
Home Gym: LA Boulders

How long have you been climbing and setting?

I have been climbing for 12 years and have been setting for a little over 11 years across multiple gyms.

What inspired you to become a routesetter?

I loved the movement aspect of rock climbing, so I was naturally attracted to the idea of making my own. Oh, and I also love watching people climb, and try (and sometimes succeed in) breaking my sequences.

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What is your favorite style of climbing, and how does that translate into your setting?

My favorite style of climbing is long sport routes, and I am drawn to steep bouldering. I’m talking about a full 70m rope, and almost a full-on roof problem. I really like the progressiveness of these sport routes. With that being said, I really enjoy setting routes where most people can get to draw 3, but that increase in difficulty as they continue. Also, setting a consistent 45-degree boulder is very fun.

What is the most valuable thing you’ve learned setting at Touchstone Climbing?

What I learned most setting at Touchstone is being able to adapt to work on different wall angles every day with consistency. It could be the Slabolith one day, then the Whirlpool Roof the next. Some days are better than others.

How are you staying active and motivated during these times?

I try to remind myself that however difficult this situation is at the moment, in the end, it will be over. Take this situation, which is challenging, and make it an opportunity to focus and hopefully come out stronger.

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Do you have any inspirational words for everyone?

Don’t focus on the bad in difficult situations! There will always be things to be thankful for. Whatever happens tomorrow will happen. Concentrate on the “now” and find happiness in the moment. Stay strong and positive. Can’t wait to see everyone back in the gym again!

Thank you Joe! Hope you’re staying healthy over there.