At 6’6” and towering high above the heads of most people, our next Member of the Month out of Sacramento Pipeworks tells us tales of the early days. An avid outdoor climber, once in awhile you can find him indoors too! We had a moment to chat about the future of our sport, and the way things used to be. If you need someone to explain what all those pieces of gear are for, or a warm smile and a pat on the back, look no further than Mark Cicak!
Member of the Month – Mark Cicak
Bove) It may be hard to believe that Touchstone is celebrating 20 years young this October! What has changed most about indoor facilities in the past 20 years?
Cicak) It seems Touchstone was initially an off-season training opportunity when the weather restricted getting outside. It was also a real fringe sport, even more than now. Bouldering has become much more popular, probably because it is more social, way cheaper than trad, with a steep achievement curve. A lot more colorful, as well.
B) How do you think the indoor climbing world will change in the next 20 years?
C) I expect bouldering and sport to dominate as more people than ever start inside vs. the ‘old days’ when climbing meant finding someone who knew climbing from their Army service, the Sierra Club training, or the infamous Hoot Owls, and trad was all there really was.
B) Being a member of Pipeworks for many years now, is there a story that you would like to share about the ‘early days’ of the gym?
C) In 2001, Pipeworks had their first Pro-Am Bouldering comp, where competitors had someone else sign their cards after watching them complete a problem. A skinny, long-haired blonde guy offered to watch/sign me off on an easy V0 problem I was looking at. I totally blew the simple problem. The guy was cool and just shrugged. I found out later, as he won the speed climbing comp, it was Hans Florine! Funny, he never did call me to speed climb El Cap with him!
World class climber Hans Florine, also the manager of Touchstone’s Concord facility Diablo Rock Gym, very recently climbed “The Nose” of El Capitan for the 100th time.
B) Are there any particular qualities that you would like for your belayer to have? Why?
C) I prefer one who is serious about safety every time. Some of us are too casual about checking each other & paying attention inside and outside. It concerns me. They better have a sense of humor too, as I can be a goofball at times.
B) Were you an outdoor climber that looked to further your abilities in the gym, or vice-versa? How do you feel each of the different styles complement one another?
C) I started at Rocknasium, because I thought my son would enjoy it, and got hooked myself. I now consider the gym as training for the outside and an excuse to have a cocktail Tuesday night. I think the gym introduces more people to climbing, but it instills a false sense of simplicity and security that can create serious misunderstandings of the real dangers of climbing outside.
B) If you could choose to be anyone you want and live in any time period and location – who would you be, when, and where would you like to live?
C) Benjamin Franklin, one of our country’s great men. Wise and witty, hardworking with an eye for women, exceptionally civic-minded, an extraordinary diplomat, statesman and inventor of the swim fin, the Franklin stove and Poor Richards Almanac. Oh, and he made serious contributions to the creation of the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution.
B) Have you been to visit and climb in all of the different Touchstone locations, and which one was your favorite gym to climb in?
C) Back when Touchstone was only 5 gyms, Malcolm Wong, a friend and I climbed all 5 gyms in one day. We started at Class 5 in Marin, then Mission Cliffs, Berkeley Ironworks, Diablo Rock Gym, and finally Sacramento Pipeworks. A long grinding day and a total blast! Mission Cliffs might be my favorite because of the great sightlines, and it is in San Francisco!
B) If you had to choose a favorite outdoor climbing destination, where would you be? Why?
C) My climbing travel have been modest, only Oregon, Nevada and California. Lover’s Leap is where I enjoy spending the most time and Sugarloaf has some compelling routes, for me.
B) Is there a piece of gear on your rack that you are hesitant to place, or never use? Is there any reason in particular that this is the case?
C) Since I am 6 ft 6 in and 210 lbs, tiny cams and nuts are not my go-to pieces.
B) When introducing a new climber to the sport, what are the reasons you give to let them know why we do what we do?
C) Over the years, it seems that either you are going to be a climber or you are not. Some just get the mind/body problem solving aspect and have the mental control to move in a direction, up, that most people think is inherently wrong. So, I tell them about controlled, reasoned risk-taking with serious consequences that produces a deep satisfaction in facing that challenge. The views aren’t bad, either.
Be sure to come celebrate Touchstone’s 20th Anniversary with us on October 2nd to share more Pipeworks memories!
